Jersey hem
 

Tips on sewing Jersey by sewing- or overlock-machine

 

Jersey can be sewn either by a sewing-machine or by an overlock-machine. In order to enable the seams to become elastic like the material, it is advised to sew either with a zig zag or a stretch stitch. The seam borders needn’t be finished off.

 
easy hem of t-shirt
 

Easy hem finishing

The extra hem added to the material needs to be ironed into shape first for light-weight materials or cloth. The less stretchable the Jersey is, the smaller the hem must be.

 
twin-needle
 

The curve should be rounded off by means of a twin-needle. This is only possible if the Jersey is stretchable or the curves around the armhole and neck are not too severe.
For sleeveless shirts shoulder seams should be sewn together first. Finish the armhole and the neckline before side seams are sewn together.
Twin-needles are found and sold with different distances from one to the other. The finer the material, the smaller must the distance be from one needle to the other.

 
neckline finishing
 

The finishing of the neckline and the armholes

The bias binding of Jersey material can also be cut as a straight strip. When sewing the band on, it is stretched in order to fit around the curve. The elasticity of the various materials differs a lot. The guiding princible is as follows: The band may be 10% shorter than the circumference of the neckline to be enclosed. Example: neckhole 50cm, border/edging 50cm - 5cm + seam addition = 45cm plus seam addition. To facilitate the work process one shoulder seam remains open. First the border is finished and then only the seam is closed. When working on the armhole the side seam remains open until the finishing of the armhole has been completed. The sewing with the twin-needles is only effectuated at the end together with the sewing of the hem. The seams of highly elastic materials get stretched when being sewn. Through an adhesive support which is ironed on this can be avoided.

 
border finishing
 
The finishing of the border

The border is folded in half with the right side outwards. With the help of the iron the border is pulled into the shape of the neck or the armhole. One shoulder seam is sewn together, the other one is left open. The doubled border is now put onto the neckline (right side on right side) whilst stretching it a bit. The border seam is ironed downwards and sewn onto the fabric with the help of the twin-needle or a zig zag stitch. Then the second shoulder is closed, the seam separated and ironed and the border ends are attached to the seam by some stitches.